Intro

The Snyper is our best selling bike, and it's really no surprise. It pedals efficiently, glides through the rough, and is stiff and light.

It continues to be called one of the "best trail bikes on the market" in bike magazine review worldwide. The Snyper has been totally redesigned for 2010 and incorporates the highly coveted IAS suspension design. Among a bevy of features, the Snyper 140 uses triple butted 6069 top and down tubes, forged aluminum shock mounts, CNC machined shock and rocker link mounts, full high compliment bearings, oversize aluminum shocks pins and a custom 7050 high strength rear derailleur hanger. If you want a bike that you can ride all day in rough terrain, look no further than the Snyper.

Whether I am riding in Nathrop, Colorado, South Mountain, Arizona or Regensburg, Germany, I pick the Snyper. It pedals so efficiently, has such neutral handling and handles the downhills so smoothly, I can't help but be impressed with every ride.

Joel Smith.

Overview

Tomac's best selling model

The Snyper 140 is a do-it-all trail bike that is made for ascending and descending with the same swiftness.

Features

• New IAS Instant Active Suspension system provides improved response time to bump forces and excellent pedalling efficiency
• 140mm travel, designed for 140 or 150mm travel fork
• 6.8lb/3100g frame weight with Fox RP23 shock
• 6069 aluminum with custom butted top, down and seat tubes
• Tapered head tube (1 1/8th top to 1.5 lower)
• CNC machined seat stay arch, dropouts and yokes
• Fits SRAM, Shimano and FSA front derailleurs
• Full seat post extension
• Dual water bottle mounts on all but small size
• Up to 2.35 tire clearance
• 68.5 degree head angle, 73 degree seat angle, 13.65 inch BB height

Tech

With all of the trail bikes we rode, there were significant problems. Some absorbed bumps well, but pedalled just marginally and had bad brake jack. Others pedalled well, but absorbed bumps marginally and had bad kickback. Almost all of them 'hooked' over rough stuff: when you would aggressively ride into the rough, the suspension would over-compress and get bogged down in the rocks.

So, when we started, we set out to solve all the trail bike issues we experienced. We wanted a lightweight bike that would pedal like a short travel XC bike, absorb bumps like a good 5.5 inch travel trail bike, float through the rough stuff easily, and be stiff like hell.

What we did is place the pivot in a location that would maximize pedalling efficiency, but not in a place that would create excessive pedal feedback or minimize the bike?s ability to absorb bumps. We used a Fox RP23 shock with XY secondary air canister because it's more linear from middle stroke and has low initial stiction (because you are running lower initial pressures). The Snyper has a relatively flat shock rate, which maximized the character of the air shock. It allows the bike to pedal well, get full travel and still feel pretty bottomless throughout the travel.

Because the bike tends to sit closer to the top of the travel under standard rider load, i.e. not wallowing in the middle, it pedals better and you get a sense that the bike has longer travel that you would expect. This also helps lessen the 'hooking' effect I spoke of above because the suspension isn't over-compressing, kicking the power into the pedals and disrupting your pedal motion so you can?t ride through rough terrain.

Okay, so we figured out the travel, the pedalling, the bump absorption, etc, but stiffness was also such a major factor. We wanted a frame that was under 7 pounds, but have it be stiffer than anything in the category. The bike as it sits is 6.8lbs with shock for a large! This is the lightest in the category, but it's also the stiffest because we use the full triangulated swingarm and the short link. Notice also the compact full triangulated front triangle.. this is also for stiffness. A triangle is the stiffest lightest method, and this bike features dual compact triangles.

At one point during the proto phase, all of the pieces came together. We created a bike that combined all of the above factors: it pedalled well, absorbed bumps great, didn't hook, didn't suffer from brake jack and dive, didn't kick back into the pedals and was very stiff. It's one of the few bikes that is truly an all-around bike. You can ride it anywhere, on any type of terrain and it excels. And, you can easily build a large up under 26 pounds.

Specifications

Geometry

Sizing

Setup Guide - Suspension Setup

For a handy graph of our suggested suspension setup, please click here:

The best way you can maximize the performance of your bicycle is by ensuring correct rear shock sag. To set sag, push the O-ring completely forward on your rear shock (towards the shock seal). Now sit on the bike in a normal riding position near a wall to steady yourself. (Note: If you use a hydration pack, make sure you also have this on. You want your "ride weight" to be as close as it is when you normally ride.) Without bouncing on the saddle or pedals, distribute your weight on the saddle and pedals in a normal riding position while holding the handlebars. Push the O-ring back up towards the shock seal and gently get off (to avoid moving the O-ring)

Recommended Sag Applications
Cross Country (Automatic/Carbide) 25-30% of total shock travel in sag, This should be 9.5mm and 11.5mm between the O-ring and shock seal on the Carbide and 12.5mm to 15mm on the Automatic.

Trail (Snyper/Vanish): 25-35% of total shock travel in sag. This should be 14mm and 20mm between the O-ring and shock seal on the Snyper and 16mm to 22mm on the Vanish.

Spring Adjustment-Air Shocks
To install air pressure in the main air spring, remove the air cap from the Schrader valve located above the large air spring canister. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air left in the pump itself and not from the shock. This does not affect your pressure setting in the shock. Likewise, when you install the pump, the shock will fill the pump and reduces the registered pressure previously installed in the shock. This usually is a 10-15 psi difference between what was in the shock and what the pump is reading. This is all normal procedure when adjusting the air spring pressure. After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap.

Rebound Damping Adjustment
The rebound damping controls the return rate of the shock after it has been compressed to absorb a bump. Rebound damping can be adjusted for different spring rates, terrain, and rider preferences. Rebound on shocks can be adjusted by the red knob on Fox shock and the blue knob on Manitou shocks, which is located on the shaft eyelet mount on coil shocks and the air canister eyelet mount on air shocks. As a general rule, rebound that is adjusted too fast will exhibit a springy ride that has excessive pedaling movement and kick up the rear end on multiple bumps and big hits. Rebound that is adjusted too slow will exhibit a packing of the rear wheel that is identified by a low ride height, stiff feeling on multiple bumps and the rear wheel drifting to one side on stutter (braking) bumps. A good rebound starting point is to set the shock to achieve a return movement that is just short of "snapping back".