Intro

Our hero Johnny T's favorite bike, the Automatic has been totally redesigned for 2010, increasing to 120mm of travel and incorporating the highly coveted IAS suspension design.

Among a bevy of features, the Automatic 120 uses triple butted 6069 top and down tubes, forged aluminum shock mounts, CNC machined shock and rocker link mounts, full high compliment bearings, oversize aluminum shock pins and a custom 7050 high strength rear derailleur hanger. If you are an XC rider that wants a bike for everything, the Automatic 120 is a bike that really excels in every occasion.

Overview

A versatile trail bike for rough terrain, combining excellent pedalling efficiency and suspension activity.

Features

• New IAS Instant Active Suspension system provides improved response time to bump forces and excellent pedalling efficiency
• 120mm travel, designed for 120 or 130mm travel fork
• 6.4 pound/2900g frame weight with Fox RP23 shock
• 6069 aluminum with custom butted top, down and seat tubes
• CNC machined seat stay arch, dropouts and yokes
• Fits SRAM, Shimano and FSA front derailleur's
• Full seat post extension
• Dual water bottle mounts on all but small size
• Up to 2.2 tire clearance
• 69.5 degree head angle, 73 seat angle, 13.1 BB height

Tech

The Automatic incorporated the new IAS Instant Active Suspension System. IAS suspension makes quick work out of bumps, especially repetitive hits (think braking bumps) where quick suspension action means less transmitted to the rider.

Because the suspension also initiates quicker, test riders consistently noted that IAS equipped bikes drive through bumps more easily, maintaining speed rather than letting the rough terrain slow the bike down. The rocker link allows us to manipulate the shock rate as the bike goes through the travel, providing a perfect curve to both absorb bumps and pedal well. Using a single pivot design allows us to create a very stiff package that is overall lighter than competitor's bikes.

One of the important aspects of the Automatic's suspension is the main pivot location. We configured it in a location that would maximize pedalling efficiency, but not in a place that would create excessive pedal feedback or minimize the bike's ability to absorb bumps. We used a Fox RP23 shock with XY secondary air canister because it's more linear from middle stroke and has low initial stiction (because you are running lower initial pressures). The Automatic has a relatively flat shock rate, which maximized the character of the air shock. It allows the bike to pedal well, get full travel and still feel pretty bottomless throughout the travel.

Because the bike tends to sit closer to the top of the travel under standard rider load, i.e. not wallowing in the middle, it pedals better and you get a sense that the bike has longer travel that you would expect. This also helps lessen the ?hooking? effect on rocks and roots because the suspension isn't over-compressing, kicking the power into the pedals and disrupting your pedal motion so you can't ride through rough terrain.

Because the swingarm typically sees the majority of lateral (side to side) flex, the Automatic uses a fully triangulated rear swingarm to increase stiffness. Stiffness in the swingarm translates both into better rider control, but it also allows the suspension to be more active in rough terrain. When the rear end is suffering from lateral flex during suspension movement, it binds the shock and will limit suspension movement. The front triangle has also been designed with stiffness in mind. The top and down tube are specially shaped to maximize lateral stiffness, and are triple butted to ensure minimal weight.

The aspect of the Automatic that you will really like is just how well it pedals and absorbs bumps. These might seem like contradictory functions, but that's the biggest difference we see between Tomac bikes and our competitor's bikes. We know you will ride the same bike down that you climbed up, and that you need a bike that will perform both activities with aplomb.

Specifications

Geometry

Sizing

Setup Guide - Suspension Setup

For a handy graph of our suggested suspension setup, please click here:

The best way you can maximize the performance of your bicycle is by ensuring correct rear shock sag. To set sag, push the O-ring completely forward on your rear shock (towards the shock seal). Now sit on the bike in a normal riding position near a wall to steady yourself. (Note: If you use a hydration pack, make sure you also have this on. You want your "ride weight" to be as close as it is when you normally ride.) Without bouncing on the saddle or pedals, distribute your weight on the saddle and pedals in a normal riding position while holding the handlebars. Push the O-ring back up towards the shock seal and gently get off (to avoid moving the O-ring)

Recommended Sag Applications
Cross Country (Automatic/Carbide) 25-30% of total shock travel in sag, This should be 9.5mm and 11.5mm between the O-ring and shock seal on the Carbide and 12.5mm to 15mm on the Automatic.

Trail (Snyper/Vanish): 25-35% of total shock travel in sag. This should be 14mm and 20mm between the O-ring and shock seal on the Snyper and 16mm to 22mm on the Vanish.

Spring Adjustment-Air Shocks
To install air pressure in the main air spring, remove the air cap from the Schrader valve located above the large air spring canister. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air left in the pump itself and not from the shock. This does not affect your pressure setting in the shock. Likewise, when you install the pump, the shock will fill the pump and reduces the registered pressure previously installed in the shock. This usually is a 10-15 psi difference between what was in the shock and what the pump is reading. This is all normal procedure when adjusting the air spring pressure. After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap.

Rebound Damping Adjustment
The rebound damping controls the return rate of the shock after it has been compressed to absorb a bump. Rebound damping can be adjusted for different spring rates, terrain, and rider preferences. Rebound on shocks can be adjusted by the red knob on Fox shock and the blue knob on Manitou shocks, which is located on the shaft eyelet mount on coil shocks and the air canister eyelet mount on air shocks. As a general rule, rebound that is adjusted too fast will exhibit a springy ride that has excessive pedaling movement and kick up the rear end on multiple bumps and big hits. Rebound that is adjusted too slow will exhibit a packing of the rear wheel that is identified by a low ride height, stiff feeling on multiple bumps and the rear wheel drifting to one side on stutter (braking) bumps. A good rebound starting point is to set the shock to achieve a return movement that is just short of "snapping back".