The king of the mountain is once again ready to descend from the top.
The all-new Primer 200 is the newest addition to the Tomac DH heritage and is packed with features, but delivers this World Cup level performance at relatively reasonable pricing.
Available March 2012.
- 200mm rear travel.
- 10 pound/4500 gram frame weight, medium size with shock.
- 6069 butted aircraft grade aluminum.
- ISCG05 mounts.
- Custom 12mm rear axle/150mm spacing.
- 83mm bb shell, 1.5 head tube.
- 64 degree head angle, 352mm bottom bracket height.
- Available in green only
- Available in small, medium, large sizes.
The king of the mountain is once again ready to descend from the top. The all-new Primer 200 is the newest addition to the Tomac DH heritage and is packed with features, but delivers this World Cup level performance at relatively reasonable pricing.
Let's face it, not everyone can afford a carbon DH rig, and with a bike like the Primer 200 on the market, is it really even necessary? At ten pounds/4500 grams for the frame with shock, you can easily build it up around 38 pounds, and still have some cash left over to buy an extra set of goggles and a lift ticket at Whistler. And it's fully featured up too: 1.5 head tube, ISCG05 guide tabs, custom 150mm axle, replaceable derailleur hanger, it's all there and ready to go.
The Primer 200 starts with top grade 6069 tubes and a lot of CNC machine work. The yokes, drops and links are all CNC machined from billet and then precision fit using oversize aluminum main pivot, shock and link pins. Even through the Primer comes with a price tag that will knock your socks off, we didn't spare any expense making it downhill worthy.
Speaking of race worthy, the Primer has been updated with the latest in World Cup geometry: 64 degree head axle, 352mm bottom bracket height. At the same time, we kept the wheelbase in line: about 1200mm in the medium size. We broke the frame down into three sizes (the previous model Primer 220 only had two sizes), so we are sure you can find a Primer that will fit like a glove.
|FRAME||Primer 200, 10 pounds / 4500 kg|
|COMPLETE||37 lbs / 16.7 kg|
|REAR SHOCK||FOX DHX RC4 Kashima 240x76|
|HEADTUBE||1.5 Head Tube. Top ID 50mm, Bottom ID 50mm, Frame standard with FSA headset for tapered steerer|
|FORK||SRAM Rockshox Boxxer RC CL 200|
|R/DERAILLEUR||SRAM XO 10-Speed|
|SHIFTERS||SRAM X0 10 Speed Shifter|
|BRAKES||Front-SRAM CODE IGY L/F 0IS 950 200MM ROTOR, Rear-SRAM CODE IGY Front/Rear 200 IS|
|CHAIN GUIDE||Gamut Dual P30 ISCG-05|
|CRANK||SRAM DESCNDNT GXP83 1.1 170|
|CASSETTE||SRAM X0 10 Speed|
|CHAIN||SRAM X0 10 Speed|
|WHEELS||Easton Havoc 26"DH Front 20x110/Rear 12x150|
|TIRES||Front-Kenda Nevegal 26X2.50, Rear-Kenda Blue Groove 26X2.50|
|HANDLEBAR||Easton HAVOC DH LO 750 31.8|
|STEM||Easton Havoc STM Blt-on 31.8|
|SEATPOST||Easton HAVOC SP 30.9 350|
|SADDLE||WTB Rocket V SLT|
|Shock ETE||240x76 (9.5x3)||240x76 (9.5x3)||240x76 (9.5x3)|
|Rear Travel||200mm (7.9")||200mm (7.9")||200mm (7.9")|
|Fork Travel||200mm (7.9")||200mm (7.9")||200mm (7.9")|
|Head Tube Angle||64°||64°||64°|
|Seat Tube Angle||72.5°||72.5°||72.5°|
|Head Tube Length||120mm (4.72")||120mm (4.72")||120mm (4.72")|
|Seat Tube Length||405mm (16")||435mm (17")||455mm (18")|
|Effective Top Tube Length||590mm (23.22")||610mm (24.01")||620mm (24.41")|
|Wheelbase||1176.7mm (46.32")||1196.7mm (47.11")||1206.6mm (47.5")|
|Chainstay Length||430mm (16.9")||430mm (16.9")||430mm (16.9")|
|BB Height||352mm (13.9")||352mm (13.9")||352mm (13.9")|
|Standover Height||822.4mm (32.37")||822.8mm (32.39")||823.4mm (32.41")|
|Small||5'0" to 5'4||1.54m to 1.65m|
|Medium||5'4' to 5'8"||1.65m to 1.77m|
|Large||5'8" to 6'0"||1.77m to 1.82m|
|XL||6'0 to 6'6"||1.82m to 2m|
Setup Guide - Suspension Setup
The best way you can maximize the performance of your bicycle is by ensuring correct rear shock sag. To set sag, push the O-ring completely forward on your rear shock (towards the shock seal). Now sit on the bike in a normal riding position near a wall to steady yourself. (Note: If you use a hydration pack, make sure you also have this on. You want your "ride weight" to be as close as it is when you normally ride.) Without bouncing on the saddle or pedals, distribute your weight on the saddle and pedals in a normal riding position while holding the handlebars. Push the O-ring back up towards the shock seal and gently get off (to avoid moving the O-ring)
Recommended Sag Applications
Cross Country (Automatic/Carbide) 25-30% of total shock travel in sag, This should be 9.5mm and 11.5mm between the O-ring and shock seal on the Carbide and 12.5mm to 15mm on the Automatic.
Trail (Snyper/Vanish): 25-35% of total shock travel in sag. This should be 14mm and 20mm between the O-ring and shock seal on the Snyper and 16mm to 22mm on the Vanish.
Spring Adjustment-Air Shocks
To install air pressure in the main air spring, remove the air cap from the Schrader valve located above the large air spring canister. Attach the pump to the Schrader valve. The hiss you hear when unscrewing the pump is only the air left in the pump itself and not from the shock. This does not affect your pressure setting in the shock. Likewise, when you install the pump, the shock will fill the pump and reduces the registered pressure previously installed in the shock. This usually is a 10-15 psi difference between what was in the shock and what the pump is reading. This is all normal procedure when adjusting the air spring pressure. After removing the pump, be sure to reinstall the Schrader valve cap.
Rebound Damping Adjustment
The rebound damping controls the return rate of the shock after it has been compressed to absorb a bump. Rebound damping can be adjusted for different spring rates, terrain, and rider preferences. Rebound on shocks can be adjusted by the red knob on Fox shock and the blue knob on Manitou shocks, which is located on the shaft eyelet mount on coil shocks and the air canister eyelet mount on air shocks. As a general rule, rebound that is adjusted too fast will exhibit a springy ride that has excessive pedaling movement and kick up the rear end on multiple bumps and big hits. Rebound that is adjusted too slow will exhibit a packing of the rear wheel that is identified by a low ride height, stiff feeling on multiple bumps and the rear wheel drifting to one side on stutter (braking) bumps. A good rebound starting point is to set the shock to achieve a return movement that is just short of "snapping back".